It was our second visit to Slovenia’s oldest town. The last time barely counted, as we were simply passing through. This time, we stayed a couple of nights for the Carnival.
Ptuj is a very walkable city, which is always a plus in my book. The medieval streets are chock full of character and the buildings house centuries of stories waiting to be told.
I was as taken with the Franciscan Monastery here as with the one in Maribor. This one is more remarkable for several reasons. It’s been beautifully and tastefully restored post WWII and everything about it lends itself to conversation. Even the statues and the pictures seem to be talking. I was particularly taken with the stone stations of the cross and the modern stained glass windows.
Although this year, we came for the Kurenti, we’ll be coming back for the annual Days of Poetry and Wine festival.
Days of Poetry and Wine, one of the largest and most recognizable international poetry festival in this part of Europe, successfully unites poetry with enology for the past twenty-seven years. Every year in the last warm August days festival hosts over twenty poets from all over the world along with selected domestic winemakers. American poet C. D. Wright and Swedish nominee for the Nobel Prize Lars Gustafsson are just two of the 500 prominent names of past festivals. The main emphasis – poetry and wine – is accompanied by a thoughtfully made programme in the field of music, visual, photography, film and other arts for all ages and interests.
Walking through the town, remember to look up as well as down.
And read the signs. The town is old. Seriously old.
Sunday in Slovenia is a no-shopping day. Nothing is open except cafés, restaurants, and bakeries. Nearly everyone we saw was carrying a box of something. That something turned out to be Krofi, a Slovene carnival donut. The queues in some places were down the street and around the corner. Of course, we had to try.
Where to eat
We ate at Pomaranca our first night because it was close to where we were staying and was ranked #4 by Tripadvisor. I have no great faith in the opinions of random strangers but, as I said, it was close. And on our way into town. It was okay. The food looked much better than it tasted though – my fish was crying out for some fennel and himself was missing some soy sauce in his steak. I’d not be in a hurry back.
Concerned that everything might be booked out, the first thing on our list on Saturday morning was to find somewhere better to eat. We lucked out and got a reservation at Bistro Lük. It’s ranked #5 on that same TripAdvisor list but is streets ahead in terms of taste. The deer carpaccio was up there with the best I’ve ever tasted. They turned us on to an excellent penina (Slovene sparkling wine) and were extremely helpful in putting us in contact with the vineyard to buy some to take home. The menu items were all weird prices…
We had one lunch and we couldn’t not have pizza. I’ve read a lot about Slovenes and their love for pizza and wanted to see what the fuss was about. We lucked into a free table at the incredibly busy Pivnica Zlatorog. The reviews on TripAdvisor swing both ways – people love it or hate it – there’s nothing in between. We loved it. It’s been doing its thing since the 70s and is still a firm favourite of many so it can’t be doing much wrong. Lots of character. Decent local wine. And one pizza between two is plenty.
The last time we were here, we had mediocre coffee. And not just in Ptuj. I found it hard to get a decent cuppa anywhere that trip. But in seven years, much has improved. By chance, we ended up back in Kava Bar Sima, a converted wine cellar. Fabulously done. Some of the artwork is the same but the vagina is missing. The coffee was delicious. Seriously good. And the Krofi, too! And so very very reasonable.
And don’t miss out on Muzikafe. For all the world like an upscale Budapest Ruin Pub outside. Or someone’s living room inside. Next time, we might stay there.
Where to stay
We booked late so all the beds in the centre were taken. Himself found a place in the lovely Hostel Sonce across the footbridge on the other side of the Mura River. In easy walking distance of the main drag, it had ample parking, friendly staff, and everything you needed. And all the rooms are private – none of the traditional dorms. Ideal if there’s a gang of you travelling.
Notes to self for next time
- Check out the library in the Minorite Monastery
- Visit the Dominican monastery (April to October)
- Try the Poetry festival
- Visit the Provost House (free tour)
- Go back to Luk – this time for breakfast – if they’re serving
- Try the bakery down in the industrial estate
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One Response
‘Some of the artwork is the same but the vagina is missing.’ Um, further explanation required…