Entries by Mary Murphy

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Zanzibar: Nafurahi Kukuona Stone Town

I’m easily confused. I have no sense of direction. I couldn’t find my way out of a paper bag on a good day. Had I been on my own, I’d still be walking around the old part of Zanzibar City known as Stone Town (Mji Mkongwe in Swahili, which means old town). The maze of […]

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Zanzibar: Jambo Safari Blue

I’m not a particularly strong swimmer. And I like having control of a situation. No surprise then that snorkelling isn’t high on my list of thing to do. But I’ll admit to being the victim of the modern-day curse: FOMO – fear of missing out.

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Zanzibar: Slave Market

High on my list of things to see in Zanzibar was the slave monument by Swedish sculptor Clara Sönäs. I have a peculiar fascination with the worst of human history and am drawn to places that commemorate atrocities committed in the name of religion or commerce.

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Zanzibar: Changuu Island

A visit to Prison Island – called after a prison that was never used as a prison – is listed as a top attraction in every guidebook (entry fee $4) under the heading of Zanzibar. I left feeling sorry for the prisoners on show today.

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Zanzibar: Karibu @Upendo

I like to think I can go with the flow, but deep down I want to know what’s happening and when. I struggle with this a lot. I’m getting the hang of pole pole but perhaps this is something I need to get a hold of, too.

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Zanzibar: Pole Pole

We landed in Zanzibar after a three-hour layover in Nairobi on schedule at 1.35 am, robbed by darkness of that all-important first impression.

Losing my travel edge

I’m usually well prepared. I have my rituals. I’m packed at least 24 hours before departure. Clothes ironed and folded. Presents bought. Phone, kindle, camera all charged. Boarding passes printed, vaccinations up to date, currencies exchanged. That’s how I usually travel. But this is 2020 and something’s changed.

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Night Walking Tour of Budapest

Just days before our gift voucher expired, we decided to book a city walking tour of Budapest with Mysterium Tours. It was a miserable, wet winter’s night. We had our guide to ourselves when we turfed up to the zero-mile marker at Clark Ádám tér.

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Kilkenny and its hens, stags, and cats

Ireland has five official cities: Dublin, Cork, Limerick, Galway, and Waterford. By official, I mean administrative. Kilkenny, usually referred to as a city, is an exception to the rule. Why I’m not exactly sure, but if you’re interested, I’m sure this will explain it all. For a while back in the seventeenth century, Kilkenny was […]

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Hungary: North to Northeast (3/3)

Wowed by the grandeur of Lillafüred, we continued on our way towards the town of Diósgyőr, now part of the northern Hungarian city of Miskolc. Himself had gotten wind of a castle-castle this time and since it was sort of on our way back to Budapest, we thought: Why not?