Stories from travels in

Mary Murphy

Person wearing a kurent costume - horns, devil mask with glowing eyes, wool hair - like a sheep's fleece. Gruesome teeth barred - smoke in the background

Ptuj, Slovenia: Kurentovanje

Shrovetide carnivals like those in Rio de Janeiro, Venice, and New Orleans, need little by way of introduction. They’re well-famous, days-long festivities in the lead-up

Sobering up in Maribor, Slovenia

Maribor. Maribor. Maribor. The name was embedded in my brain long before I ever set foot in the city. I knew of it because of

Black and white photo of latticed iron gate behind which sits a wine cellar. Rows of niches on each side with layers of wine bottles stacked in each niche. Black mould hangs from the ceiling. Strips of fluorescent light cast a dull glow.

Tasting wine in Maribor, Slovenia

Standing at Kodžak, what residents call the National Liberation Monument in Maribor, I looked around. The castle was on my left and another building clothed

Sheets of broken ice hug brown-hued rocks along the edge of a greeny-water lake with a silhouette of black leafless trees on the horizon

Balatongyörök, Hungary

I’m a huge fan of the Balaton. In winter. Not in summer. I thoroughly dislike it in summer. But in winter it’s magical. There’s a

Robertstown, Co. Kildare, Ireland

The year was 1784. It was the year the Grand Canal came to this part of Ireland. The artificial waterway was first conceived in 1755

Brittany, France

“It’s all very French.” That was one of my more acute observations made all the sharper because we were in France. In Brittany.

Josselin, France

Let’s have lunch in Josselin, our host suggested. Grand, we said, having never heard of the place.