With the weather forecast predicting high winds, we headed for a harbour after anchoring for one night off Sounion. There, overlooked by the Temple of Poseidon, I sat and worked. One of the joys of freelancing is that you’re eminently replaceable. And when you’re in the early stages of a client-supplier relationship, availability is key. 
It was a tad surreal thinking that as I was hot-spotting wifi from my phone with my laptop hooked up to the generator; the temple above me has seen some changes.
This Doric temple was erected during the Golden Age of Pericles. It was devoted to Poseidon, the Olympian God of the Sea, and is located at the edge of Cape Sounion at the southern coast of Attica, with a spectacular view of the Aegean Sea. Along with the Parthenon and the temple of Aphaia, on nearby Aegina island, Poseidon’s mighty monument completes the Sacred Triangle of antiquity.
Even if I hadn’t had work to do, I doubt that I’d have braved the dinghy crossing – the water was just a tad too rough for my liking. But had I gone (€10 entrance fee), I’d have searched for the mark Byron had left behind when he visited the temple in the early nineteenth century. I read that the British poet and Grecophile had graffitied his name on the temple’s stones. What a delinquent!
The time to go is at sunset. But this particular night, as the sun set, one of the boats anchored off Cape Sounion let off fireworks. Those in the water applauded. Those at the temple were perhaps less than happy that their photo moment was ruined.
The port town of Ermioni couldn’t be more different. It’s awash with all sorts of boats – yachts, catamarans, and fishing boats. When we tied up, there were three of us in the outer marina. Two hours later, it was full. The wind was so strong and the water so choppy, that getting safely across the gangplank was an issue. An Italian dad and his daughter in the boat beside us fell into the drink and our lads came to their rescue.
Boaty people are very friendly and helpful. As you approach, anyone hanging around will come over to catch ropes and help you tie up. We’ve met all sorts – German, Bulgarian, Serbian, Italian, French, Russian, American, British. Apart from having to don a mask when you go into a shop or show your COVID passport if you want to take a ferry, you’d barely know there was a pandemic going on. There is no indoor dining but with the sun shining we’d barely noticed.
The plan was to stay here a couple of days and take an early ferry across to Hydra, to give the nod to Leonard Cohen. But that plan was scuppered. The 10 am ferry didn’t sail as it’s too gusty. The noon crossing didn’t go either. We’re still hoping for the 2.40 – it’s a bigger boat.
With the morning free, I checked the map and noticed that the old town was on the far side of the peninsula. We wandered up and around and came down the far side to another marina. This one was filled with huge boats and multinational passengers and crews dressed as if readying for a Vogue fashion shoot. Perhaps it was a massive flotilla. I’ve no clue. It had that adult spring-break feel to it.
We wandered around admiring the old houses, checking out the cafés and restaurants, and looking for the octopus drying in the sun.
As we climbed the hill over towards the park, we spotted shallow swimming holes, perfect for a day in the sun. And if the wind keeps behaving as it is, we might just get that day.
Ermioni is a lovely spot, billed as a family holiday destination. And it is. One side is quiet and laid back, the other is more touristy. We got the best of both.
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