Alaska. South Africa. Could two places be more different? And yet, while in South Africa on safari, Alaska kept popping into my head. And it started when I saw a buffalo. Alaska is a great place to spot moose, caribou, bear, and the odd buffalo if you are lucky. In Africa, they talk of the Big 5: elephant, rhino, buffalo, leopard and lion (interestingly, this is to be expanded to the Big 7, to include whale and shark…mmmm).
Two completely different casts of characters, animals known for either their predatory nature or danger potential in compromising situations, with one common denominator. The Alaskan bison and the African buffalo don’t look alike all; it’s a bit like me having, say, Japanese cousins. But the relationship is there.
As the late AK was fond of saying, for every one animal you see in the bush, 49 see you. HR is convinced that when he goes to heaven, St Peter will play back a video showing him all the animals he failed to spot on his trips to Kruger on safari and that will be his purgatory. Driving through the park gates was like driving into another world, a world where humans are locked up and animals roam free. A world where looking out the window of a kombi you might spot nothing for hours but acres and acres of bush and scrub and then suddenly, you round a bend and happen across a lioness on the side of the road.
Much of the excitement of being ‘on safari’ is not knowing what you’ll see next. Every bit of your being is tuned in to where you are and what you’re doing. You’re on high alert for the best part of the day. You react to the slightest movement in the trees, call ‘stop’ to the driver (the incredibly patient EK) who will then reverse and give you time to check out what you think you’ve seen. It can be very frustrating – rocks, trees, bushes all begin to take shape and morph into animals. You’d put money that what you saw was alive and breathing but no… it was another one of nature’s tricks.
But to truly enjoy it, to really get it, you need to be aware of the majesty of it all. It’s not about spotting the Big 5. It’s about spotting the chameleon on the side of the road; it’s about never tiring of seeing herd after herd of water-buck; it’s about dumping that ‘gotta be big to be great’ attitude that is so prevalent in our world of blockbusters and bestsellers. Yes, your first elephant or lion or zebra will always have that extra ‘specialness’ of being your ‘first’ …but the shame of it is that it’s so easy to devolve into a ‘seen one, seen ’em all’ attitude.
On a night safari (the only option available to see animals at night as private vehicles cannot leave the compounds after 6pm) it was upsetting to hear people groan ‘it’s only a herd of impala’. How anyone could tire of seeing these gorgeous faces is beyond me. Likewise, the zebra. Amazing creatures. I could watch them all day. Their black and white stripes (28 on each side of the average Z) moving and merging into new patterns and shapes. Art on hooves. Whether their stripes are for camouflage or to prevent insects biting is still under discussion and has been so for more than a century.
While the days did take on a certain sameness as we found our groove, that sameness was superficial. Up at dawn. A quick coffee and some rusks (ours made by the incredibly talented SD from Ermelo, Mpumalanga). Pack the kombi. Then out the gate. Brunch about 1 ish (Pretoria’s HR in charge of the braai) and lunch late afternoon before back to the camp to supper. That was the routine of it. DR has it down to a fine art – she’s the mistress of order and organisation and could run a small nation. She’d get my vote for president any day. The excitement, the wonder, the magnificence of it all came in between. During the long hours of nothing, years of collective memories surfaced and I realised how lucky I was to be in the company of such greatness. And then the adrenaline rush when I thought I saw something. The frustration when it turned out to be a rock. Another rush and this time I was sure it moved… and it did… and I saw nature at her best, in all her glory. And I felt insignificant.
For all our modernity, for all our inventiveness, for all that we claim in the name of progress, nothing can match the uncomplicated complexity of nature. A world where survival is what it’s about; a world where beauty is not augmented by creams and lotions; a world where big and small live side by side and being different is part of simply being.
22 responses
Oh the memories! Well said – as always m’dear!
What an interesting post and I thoroughly enjoyed reading it. I’ve learned a lot, as I have not been to Alaska or that part of Africa yet.
Glad you enjoyed. Highly recommend both places
Interesting note about the Big 5 evolving into the Big 7, I had no idea. This is getting me so excited for our first safari next Nov! I love that you spotted that little chameleon.
Enjoy Ivy – I’d go back in a heartbeat.
Wow amazing post. Such amazing creatures out in Africa. I hope to see a lion someday out in the wild.
Nothing quite like it – except for seeing a male lion with all his mane
I absolutely loved reading your blog! Some very wise words there! You are right, in this world of blockbusters and best sellers, people forget to pause for a moment and enjoy the wonders of nature..i have only done safari once but next time, i will try to dive in to the experience a bit more deeply. Happy travelling 🙂
Thanks Jain – definitely worth the experience
Cool chameleon! It looks like from a cartoon. Shouldn’t it be more colored like its surroundings?
Maybe it had just gotten out of bed?
I’ve always wanted to go on an African safari. I love the picture of the chameleon! He looks like quite the character.
Almost tempted to put him in my bag and take him home – too cute
Great post! Safari and Big 5 has been on my bucket list forever! Really need to start planning my trip to Africa 🙂
And I’m planning a return – to see the desert bloom in Namibia
This was sooooo interesting! I am afraid of animals so I typically avoid them when I travel, but you have me thinking safari! I love the photos! So cool!
And all from the safety of the vehicle….
I really need to get my butt on a safari!! I have read so many wonderful posts like yours, and I think next year will be the year.
I completely agree about the “Big 5”, the fact that we are lucky enough to see any of these animals going about their business is a true blessing ☺️
Am still amazed that the list is officially growing to the BIg 7 🙂
omg loved the photography! The first picture cracked me up, mame me laugh out loud literally 🙂 I’ve never been to a safari, but I am dying to go into one.
It was amazing to get so close and yet not be able to get out of the car… I think they see cars as smelly animals.