Sümeg, Hungary

Driving into the town of Sümeg never fails to evoke an audible wow. The thirteenth-century castle perched on the hill is quite spectacular. It has undergone a few renovations; each visit has something new to offer. Originally a gift from King István V to the diocese of Veszprem, it’s one of the better-known landmarks north of Lake Balaton.

It was too hot to make the climb; truth be told, we’d come for the horses.

The Equestrian Games happen twice a week off-season and four times a week during the summer months. I’d not been before, so I was looking forward to it. Himself rated it higher than the Lipizzaner stallions show in the Spanish Riding School in Vienna. I’d been a tad underwhelmed by that, so my expectations were high.

The games include a Spanish horse show and a knights’ tournament featuring weapon demonstration and jousts on horseback and on the ground. Beyond the environmental elements, the medieval atmosphere is truly reflected in the costumes of our characters and the background music. To top the evening off, following our programme, our guests can enjoy the rich flavours of an authentic medieval feast in the Great Knights’ Hall.

We’d booked ahead. Four of us. We had visitors who wanted to go the whole hog and add the post-show medieval banquet to the mix.

The place was mobbed. Two orderly lines filed into the outdoor arena – they have an indoor one, too.

The MC, in full medieval garb, spoke too quickly for me to catch much of what was going on – it’s all in Hungarian.

The promised Spanish horse show was wonderful, made all the more meaningful for me because TJ knows his horses. His reactions spoke to how impressive the movements were. Some of what they were doing was familiar as I’d seen it at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna.

It was a blistering hot day, and I was mega impressed that no one was fainting from the weight of their costumes.

A soloist sang beautifully as she took her Andalusian through their dressage paces. It was all rather moving, even if I didn’t understand much of what was being said or sung.

Anyway, I was really there for the Mongolian horse stunt show. And the troupe of riders were brilliant. Fast and furious. Accurate. Athletic. Mesmerizing.

Once we’d seen what they could do, the Knights Tournament began.

And yes, the knights had bigger horses and heavier riders. And they were good, but the Mongolian riders – wow.

It had it all – swords, shields, mace, bows and arrows, hatchets, spears.

It was hard to keep track of who was winning – the competition seemed quite real. I reckon the Mongolians took it in the end, though – even if one of their lads was beheaded.

The horses and riders made up a receiving line as we wandered over to the banquet hall. Costumed wait staff doled out palinka and pogácsa as we headed downstairs.

We got ringside seats with a fine view of the musicians and the grand entrance for the horse dance.

Dinner was a vegetable soup followed by roasted goose leg with cabbage salad, corn poke, and potatoes (I think). All eaten by hand. Dessert was some sort of strudel. It all came with a carafe of white wine, another of red, and sparkling and still water.

While I’m glad we dined, I wouldn’t be in a hurry to do it again.

The horse show, though? That I do. I suspect it’ll become a regular feature on my visitor calendar.