Stories from travels in


Humanizing Hungarians

I knew little, if anything, about Hungary before I moved here. Gradually, as I met more and more people, my list of places to visit

Grateful 5

Everything I’ve ever done in my life to date has led to my being in Budapest right now. Difficult to imagine that each little decision

A job half-done

When she died on her thirteenth birthday on St Patrick’s Day in 1887, Hungary mourned its loss. The nation’s flags flew at half-mast and Hungarians

What would you do with a second-hand palace?

When it came to wealth, I thought the Habsburgs reigned supreme but apparently the Esterházy family topped them on the who’s richest list of the

The new 19th?

Golfers everywhere refer to the clubhouse as the 19th hole. The last place of refuge. A place to celebrate their victories or drown their sorrows.

Paying for prayers

Before it became a Camaldulian heritage, the monastery at Majk was a Premonstratensian provostry. And yes, I had to check the dictionary. Twice. Once to

Expense explained

The price of Herend porcelain has, on occasion, caused to me to clutch my heart and fear death. You couldn’t pay me enough money to

Grateful 8

I’ve managed to get myself into trouble on occasion but never anything so serious that I couldn’t be extricated, more or less intact. I still

In a green bottle, please

Landing in the town of Mór in northwestern Hungary on a Saturday afternoon in early November, you’d be justified in thinking that the world had

Justice for Hungary

That last thing you’d expect driving along the minor road from Bicske to Csákvár in northwestern Hungary is to be catapulted back to July 1931.

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