Stories from travels in

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Person wearing a kurent costume - horns, devil mask with glowing eyes, wool hair - like a sheep's fleece. Gruesome teeth barred - smoke in the background

Ptuj, Slovenia: Kurentovanje

Shrovetide carnivals like those in Rio de Janeiro, Venice, and New Orleans, need little by way of introduction. They’re well-famous, days-long festivities in the lead-up

One arch of a red iron bridge spanning a wide river. Bridge is reflected in the water as is the cloudless blue sky

Strolling the streets of Maribor, Slovenia

I was surprised that Maribor didn’t make the list of the top 50 most walkable cities in the world. Or even the 33 most walkable

Sobering up in Maribor, Slovenia

Maribor. Maribor. Maribor. The name was embedded in my brain long before I ever set foot in the city. I knew of it because of

Walking through history in Maribor, Slovenia

I’m not a massive fan of museums. Unless they deal with war or resistance or the Holocaust. Or something completely off the wall like the

Black and white photo of latticed iron gate behind which sits a wine cellar. Rows of niches on each side with layers of wine bottles stacked in each niche. Black mould hangs from the ceiling. Strips of fluorescent light cast a dull glow.

Tasting wine in Maribor, Slovenia

Standing at Kodžak, what residents call the National Liberation Monument in Maribor, I looked around. The castle was on my left and another building clothed

Eating out in Maribor, Slovenia

We had one night in Maribor. One dinner. And I wanted something different, some place with a story.

Sheets of broken ice hug brown-hued rocks along the edge of a greeny-water lake with a silhouette of black leafless trees on the horizon

Balatongyörök, Hungary

I’m a huge fan of the Balaton. In winter. Not in summer. I thoroughly dislike it in summer. But in winter it’s magical. There’s a

Robertstown, Co. Kildare, Ireland

The year was 1784. It was the year the Grand Canal came to this part of Ireland. The artificial waterway was first conceived in 1755

Brittany, France

“It’s all very French.” That was one of my more acute observations made all the sharper because we were in France. In Brittany.

Josselin, France

Let’s have lunch in Josselin, our host suggested. Grand, we said, having never heard of the place.