Stories from travels in


Hypogeum in Malta

Hidden depths – the Hypogeum in Malta

When I was seven, my twenty-year-old cousin was old, which made my forty-year-old aunt very old and my grandmother positively ancient. Age was relative –

Baku, Azerbaijan

Baku bits

Baku at night is a city bathed in light. No matter that many residents have their electricity cut off at some stage during the day

Baku restaurants

Pleasure on your faces…

…is our success. So reads the front page of the menu of what has quickly become a favourite restaurant for me in Baku – L’aparté.

Fire Mountain, Baku, Azerbaijan

Fire mountain

Saturday night in Baku. Very cold, too cold for snow but a definite hint of rain in the air. We’re going to see Yanar dağ,

Baku Azerbaijan

Don’t confuse Armani with Armenia

Shopping, like most things I’ve found in Baku, comes in two extremes: very cheap or very expensive; Turkish tat (a change, albeit not a marked

Baku buildings Azerbaijan


A couple of months ago, I thought Azerbaijan was a country on the other side of Serbia. Geography was never one of my strong subjects.

Mosque in Baku Azerbaijan

Baku beckons

I am awake when I wake up. My usual sleepy headedness is noticeably absent. I check my watch – 9 am. I’d slept in later

Diplomatic persons

The flight from the Ukraine to Azerbaijan was about half full. The first transit bus had disgorged its passengers and we had taken seat, expecting

Maltese lace bobbins

New life in old art – Maltese lace

Back home in Ireland, in Carrickmacross, they’re famous for their lace. It’s a tradition that dates back to the 1820s apparently and from what I

Fort Chambray Malta

Who’s to blame? Fort Chambray

Do I need to drag myself, kicking and screaming, into the 21st century, or can I stay in my self-enforced state of denial, at odds

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